1. Disconnect batteries.
2. Remove air cleaner.
3. Disconnect pump power, vacuum, fast idle power, and throttle cable from pump.
4. Remove air intake manifold bolts, (15mm). NOTE: Put bolts, nuts and line clamps
out of the way in order of removal to aid reassembly.
5. Remove PVC can and hoses.
6. Remove intake manifold by tapping with hammer to free manifold from gaskets.
Cover cylinder intakes to keep tools, parts and dirt out of engine.
7. Remove fuel lines from back of pump, NOT Injectors! (16mm).
NOTE: Use 16mm crowsfoot wrench and short extension for lower lines.
Carefully, bend them clear by one inch to allow room for pump removal.
8. Remove three pump mounting nuts (15mm). Find pump alignment mark next to top mounting nut.
9. Remove two oil fill tube nuts (13mm), tube and front cover seal on bottom of tube.
10. Remove three pump drive gear bolts (13mm) using socket through oil fill tube mounting hole.
NOTE: Rotate engine using 15/16ths deep well socket on crank pulley to bring each bolt into view.
11. Remove pump noting position of pump drive gear alignment pin (see #3 of Installation instructions).
1. Transfer brackets and vacuum switch from old pump to new pump.
Lube fuel delivery line nuts so that they spin freely on the end of the line.
2. Replace pump and/or intake gaskets if damaged. Note: Intake gaskets can be repaired with gasket sealer.
3. Check that pump drive gear alignment pin is in the same position as the old pump so that the bolts line up.
4. Install pump into mount but do not tighten mounting nuts.
5. Install and tighten 3 pump drive gear bolts
(same method as removal, rotate engine by hand to access bolts through oil filler tube mounting hole.)
6. Install fuel delivery lines. Start at bottom of pump, working to top.
These lines must be TIGHT or they will leak. They also must be in the same order they came off.
7. Align pump timing marks and tighten the 3 pump mounting nuts.
8. Reassemble all other items in reverse order of disassembly.
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM:
After pump replacement, air must be bled out of the system. When you start the engine for the first time,
it may run rough, knock, smoke or stall. Ideally, you want to keep the engine running long enough to
clear the injectors of air bubbles. Usually this takes one to two minutes at just above idle rpm.
If engine will not start or stalls, you can repeat normal starting procedure, allowing starter to cool one
minute after every 10 seconds of operating. It may take several times before the engine restarts.
After engine runs without stalling, open black bleeder knob on top of the fuel filter while engine idles.
When clean fuel comes out, no air bubbles, close bleeder. Do final check of all fuel fittings inspecting for leaks.
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